- 1 lb. roasted malt
- 1 lb. black malt
- 2 lb. crystal malt
- 3 lb. demerara sugar
- 1 lb. black treacle
- ½ lb. flaked maize (cornflakes)
- 4 oz. hops small level teaspoonful salt
- ½ oz. citric acid – yeast – nutrient
Bring seven quarts water to 150°F. Pour into polythene pail and add the malts and flaked maize at once. Put in the immersion heater, cover with sheet polythene and wrap vessel in blanket to conserve warmth. Switch on heater and keep mash at 145°-150°F for seven-eight hours. If you want to try the starch test, now is the time to do it.
Strain mash into boiler, add two ounces of hops and the salt. Boil rapidly for one minute and then simmer gently for forty minutes. Add remaining hops and simmer for a further ten minutes. Put sugar, acid and treacle into fermenting vessel and strain the mash on to it, stirring until all sugar is dissolved. Then make up to four gallons with boiling water.
Cover with sheet polythene as directed and leave to cool to 65°-70°F. Then add yeast and nutrient. Cover again as directed and leave in a warm place for six days.
If using hydrometer take reading after six days until 1.005 is recorded and then bottle. If not using hydrometer, allow stout to ferment on until it goes ‘flat’. Then prime – add sugar to restart fermentation as already directed – and then bottle.
If a draught stout of this sort is wanted then merely allow fermentation to go on until the stout has gone ‘flat’ and then bottle.
Keep for two to four weeks before drinking. If you must sweeten use lactose to taste as already directed, but I think you will prefer this without it being sweetened.
2 lb. black malt- 1 lb. pale malt
- 6 oz. oatmeal
- 3 oz. hops
- 4 lb. demerara sugar
- small level teaspoonful salt
- ½ oz. citric acid – yeast – nutrient
Bring seven quarts water to 150°F and pour into polythene pail and add malts and oatmeal at once. Put in immersion heater, cover as directed with sheet polythene, and wrap vessel with blanket to conserve warmth. Switch on heater and maintain mash at 145°-150°F. for seven-eight hours. At this stage the starch test may be carried out if you want to.
Strain the mash into boiler and add salt and two ounces hops. Boil rapidly for one minute and then simmer gently for forty minutes. Add remaining hops and simmer for a further ten minutes. Put sugar and citric acid in the fermenting vessel and strain the mash on to this, stirring to make sure all sugar is dissolved. Then make up to four gallons with boiling water. Allow to cool to 65°-70°F and then add yeast and nutrient. Cover as directed and leave in a warm place for six-eight days.
If using hydrometer, take readings at six days until 1.005 is recorded and then bottle as directed. If hydrometer is not being used, allow stout to ferment on until it goes ‘flat’ and then prime – add sugar to restart fermentation – and then bottle.
If a draught beer of this sort is required, merely allow fermentation to go on until beer goes ‘flat’ and then bottle.
Sweeten as required with lactose. Keep for at least two weeks in bottles before drinking.
2 lb. patent black malt- 1 lb. pale malt
- 6 oz. flaked maize (cornflakes)
- 3 oz. hops
- 2 lb. white sugar
- 2 lb. powdered glucose
- teaspoonful salt
- ¼ oz. citric acid yeast – nutrient
Bring seven quarts of water to 150°F. Pour into polythene pail and add the malts and flaked maize at once. Put in immersion heater, cover as directed with sheet polythene and wrap vessel with a blanket to conserve warmth. Switch on heater and keep the mash at 145°-150°F for seven-eight hours. At this stage the starch test may be carried out if you wish.
Strain the mash into the boiler and add salt and two ounces of hops. Boil rapidly for one minute and then simmer for forty minutes. Add remaining hops and simmer for a further ten minutes.
Put the sugar, glucose and citric acid in the fermenting vessel and strain the mash on to it through fine muslin. Stir well, making sure all sugar is dissolved and make up to four gallons with boiling water.
Cover as directed and leave to cool to 65°-70°F.
Then add yeast and nutrient and leave in a warm place for seven-eight days.
If using hydrometer take readings at five-six days until 1.005 is recorded and then bottle as directed. If hydrometer is not being used, allow stout to ferment out until it goes ‘flat’ and then prime – add sugar as directed to restart fermentation – and then bottle.
If a draught stout of this sort is required, merely let the stout ferment out until it goes ‘flat’ and then bottle.
Sweeten with lactose as required and keep m bottles for a few weeks or use as soon as required.
2 lb. patent black malt- 2 lb. crystal malt
- 1 lb. black treacle
- 3 lb. white sugar
- 4 oz. hops
- teaspoonful salt
- 1 oz. citric acid – yeast – nutrient
Bring seven quarts water to 150°F. Pour this into the polythene pail and add the malts at once. Put in the immersion heater, cover the vessel with polythene as directed and wrap in a blanket to conserve warmth. Switch on the heater and keep the mash at 145°-150°F for eight hours. You may carry out the starch test at this stage if you want to.
Strain the mash into the boiler and add two ounces of hops and the salt. Boil rapidly for one minute and then simmer for forty minutes. Then add remaining hops and simmer for a further ten minutes.
Put the sugar, treacle and citric acid in the fermenting vessel and strain the mash on to it. Make up to four gallons with boiling water. Allow to cool to 65°-70°F and then add yeast and nutrient. Cover as already directed and leave in a warm place for six-seven days.
If using hydrometer, take readings after five days until reading has dropped to 1.005 and then bottle as already advised. If hydrometer is not in use, allow fermentation to go on until stout goes ‘flat’, and then prime – add sugar to restart fermentation – and bottle. Some people like this as a draught stout; if you think you would like it, there will be no need to use the hydrometer or to prime the stout. Merely let it ferment right out and then bottle.
Note. Stouts are usually sweeter than ordinary ales and beers. If sweetening is needed, add a little lactose as already suggested. This will improve after a few weeks in bottle, but may be used after two weeks.
2 lb. roasted malt- 2 lb. patent black malt
- 4 lb. white sugar
- 4 oz. hops
- 2 small level teaspoonfuls salt
- ½ oz. citric acid – yeast – nutrient
Bring seven quarts water to 150°F. Pour into polythene pail and add the malts at once. Put in immersion heater, cover vessel with sheet polythene as directed and wrap vessel in blanket to conserve warmth. Switch on heater and maintain mash at 145°-150°F for seven-eight hours. At this stage you may carry out the starch test if you want to.
Strain mash into boiler and add the salt and two ounces of hops. Boil rapidly for one minute and then simmer for forty minutes. Add remaining hops and simmer for further ten minutes. Put sugar and citric acid in fermenting vessel and strain mash on to it through fine muslin. Stir well, making sure all sugar is dissolved and then make up to four gallons with boiling water. Allow to cool to 65°-70°F. Then add yeast and nutrient.
Cover with sheet polythene as already directed and leave to ferment for seven-eight days. If using hydrometer, take readings after six days until 1.005 is recorded and then bottle. If hydrometer is not being used, allow fermentation to go on until beer goes ‘flat’ and then prime – add sugar to recommence fermentation as already directed – and then bottle. If draught beer of this sort is required, merely allow fermentation to go on until beer goes ‘flat’ and then bottle. Keep for a few weeks to improve and clear, but may be used as soon as clear.
- 4 lb. roasted malt
- 1 lb. patent black malt
- 4 lb. demerara sugar
- 4 oz. hops
- 1 level teaspoonful salt
- ½ oz. citric acid
- yeast – nutrient
Bring seven quarts water to 150°F. Pour this into the polythene pail and add the malts at once. Put in the immersion heater, cover with polythene as already directed and wrap the vessel in a blanket to conserve warmth. Switch on the heater and keep the mash at 145°-150°F for seven-eight hours. At this stage you may carry out the starch test if you want to.
Strain the mash into the boiler and add .2 oz. hops, the salt (and a little coloring matter if you want to). Boil for one minute and then simmer for forty minutes. Then add remaining hops’ and simmer for a further ten minutes.
Put the sugar and acid in the fermenting vessel and strain the mash on to it through fine muslin. Stir well, making sure sugar is dissolved and then make up to four gallons with boiling water. Cover as directed and leave to cool to 65°-70°F. Then add yeast and nutrient. Cover again and leave in a warm place for six-eight days.
If using hydrometer, take readings from five days or until 1.005 is recorded and bottle as directed. If hydrometer is not in use, allow fermentation to go on for a day or two longer until beer goes ‘flat’ and then prime – add sugar to restart fermentation as already explained.
If draught beer of this sort is required, then when the beer has gone ‘fiat’, it is merely bottled as directed ‘without priming.
Drink after a week or two.
- 3 lb. pale malt
- 1 lb. crystal malt
- 4 lb. demerara sugar
- 1 lb. golden syrup
- 6 oz. hops
- small level teaspoonful salt
- ½ oz. citric acid
- yeast – nutrient
Bring seven quarts water to 150°F. Pour into polythene pail and add both malts at once. Put in immersion heater, cover with sheet polythene as directed and wrap the vessel in a blanket to conserve warmth. Switch on heater and maintain mash at 145°-150°F for seven-eight hours. At this stage the starch test may be carried out if you want to try this.
Strain mash into boiler and add three ounces of hops and the salt. Boil rapidly for one minute and then simmer gently for forty minutes. Add remaining hops and simmer for a further ten minutes.
Put sugar, acid and golden syrup into fermenting vessel and strain the mash on to it through fine muslin. Stir well making sure all sugar is dissolved and then make up to four gallons with boiling water. Allow to cool to 65°-70°F, and then add yeast and nutrient.
Cover as directed and leave in a warm place for six-eight days.
If using hydrometer, take reading after six days until 1.005 is recorded and bottle as already directed. If hydrometer is not in use, allow fermentation to go on until beer goes ‘flat’ and then prime add sugar to restart fermentation as already directed and then bottle. If draught beer of this sort is wanted then merely let the beer ferment on until it goes ‘flat’ and then bottle.
Keep in bottle at least one month before drinking – though it may be used sooner if required.
- 2 lb. crystal malt
- 2 lb. pale malt
- 5 lb sugar
- 6 oz. hops
- level teaspoonful salt
- ½ oz. citric acid
- yeast – nutrient
Bring seven quarts water to 150°F. Pour this into polythene pail and add the malt at once. Cover the vessel with polythene as directed after inserting the immersion heater, and then wrap the vessel in a blanket to conserve warmth. Switch on the heater and leave for seven-eight hours. At this stage you may try the starch test if you want to.
Strain the mash into the boiler and add four ounces of hops. Boil for one minute and then simmer for forty minutes. Add the remaining hops and boil for a further ten minutes.
Put the sugar and acid in the fermenting vessel and strain the boiling mash on to it through fine muslin.
Stir well, making sure all sugar is dissolved and then make up to four gallons with boiling water.
Cover with sheet polythene as already directed and leave to cool to 65°-70°F. Then add the yeast. Cover again and leave in a warm place for seven or eight days.
If using the hydrometer, take readings after five days until 1.005 is recorded and bottle as already directed.
If not using hydrometer, allow fermentation to go on until beer goes ‘fiat’, and then prime – add sugar to restart fermentation.
If draught beer of this sort is required, then no sugar is added. The beer when ‘fiat’ is either bottled or put into tap-hole jars. But bear in mind what I have already written about the use of tap-hole jars.
- 4 lb. pale malt
- 2 lb. white sugar
- 1 lb. demerara sugar
- 2 tablespoonfuls black treacle
- 3 oz. hops
- 1 small level teaspoonful salt
- ½ oz. citric acid
- lager yeast – nutrient
Bring seven quarts water to 150°F. Pour into polythene pail and add the malt at once. Put in immersion heater, cover with sheet polythene as directed and wrap vessel in blanket to conserve warmth. Switch on heater and maintain mash at 145° -150°F for eight hours. You may try the starch test at this stage if you want to.
Strain the mash into boiler and add the salt and two ounces of hops. Bring to boil and simmer for forty minutes. Add remaining hops and simmer for a further ten minutes.
Put both sugars, treacle and citric acid into the fermenting vessel and strain mash on to it through fine muslin. Make up to four gallons with boiling water and allow to cool to 65° – 70°F. Add yeast and nutrient, cover with sheet polythene as directed and leave to ferment for six-eight days.
If using hydrometer, take readings after six days until 1.005 is recorded and then bottle. If hydrometer is not being used, merely allow fermentation to go on until beer becomes ‘flat’ and then prime – add sugar to recommence fermentation – and then bottle.
If draught beer of this sort is wanted, merely allow fermentation to go on until beer goes ‘flat’ and then bottle.
May be used a week or so after clearing, but better if kept for three weeks or more before being used.
- 4 lb. pale malt
- 3½ lb. white sugar
- 3 oz. hops
- small level teaspoonful salt
- ½ oz. citric acid
- lager yeast – nutrient
Bring seven quarts water to 150°F and pour into the polythene pail. Add the malt at once. Put in the immersion heater, cover the vessel with polythene and wrap the vessel in a blanket to conserve warmth.
Switch on the heater and leave for seven-eight hours. At this stage you may carry out the starch test if you want to. Strain the mash into the boiler, add two ounces of hops and the salt. Boil for one minute and then simmer for forty minutes. Add remaining hops and simmer for a further ten minutes.
Put the sugar and acid in the fermenting vessel and strain the mash on to it through fine muslin. Stir well, making sure all sugar is dissolved, and then make up to four gallons with boiling water.
Cover with sheet polythene and allow to cool to 65°-70°F. Then add the yeast. Cover as directed and leave in a warm place for eight-ten days. If using the hydrometer, take readings after six days and until 1.005 is recorded and then bottle as already directed.
If you are not using the hydrometer, allow beer to ferment out by leaving for a day or two longer or until the beer goes ‘flat’. Then prime – add sugar to restart fermentation – as already explained.
Keep for six weeks in bottles before using. This can, of course, be used sooner than this, but this lager is better for being kept a few weeks.
