Homemade & Commercial
Wine, Beer, Spirits, Cider & Mead Guides

Alcoholic beverages; most commonly beer and wines made at home. Brews made from brewing kits purchased at shops specialized in spirits. The Beer Pirate features homebrew recipes, equipment requirements, and commercial productions information; and all the best practices needed to make that perfect batch!

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Super Stout

Bravery's Super Stout

  • 2 lb. crystal malt
  • 2 lb. patent black malt
  • 1 lb. black treacle
  • 3 lb. white sugar
  • 3 oz. hops
  • 2 small level teaspoonfuls salt
  • ½ oz. citric acid – yeast – nutrient

Bring seven quarts water to 150°F. Pour into polythene pail and add the malts at once. Put in immersion heater, cover vessel with sheet polythene as directed and wrap vessel in blanket to conserve warmth. Switch on heater and maintain mash at 145°-150°F for eight hours. At this stage you may carry out starch test if you want to. Strain mash into boiler and add salt and two ounces hops. Bring to boil and simmer gently for forty minutes. Add remaining hops and simmer hard or boil for a further five minutes.

Put sugar, treacle and citric acid into the fermenting vessel and strain the mash on to it through fine muslin. Stir well, making sure all sugar is dissolved and make up to four gallons with boiling water.

Cover with sheet polythene as already directed and leave to cool to 65°-70°f. Add yeast and nutrient and leave to ferment for six-eight days.

If using hydrometer, take readings after five days until 1.005 is recorded and then bottle. If hydrometer is not being used, allow fermentation to go on until beer becomes ‘flat’ and then prime – add sugar to recommence fermentation – and then bottle. If draught beer of this sort is wanted merely bottle the beer when it has gone ‘flat’. Improves with keeping for six or more weeks, though it may be used as soon as all yeast has settled and the beer is clear.

Home Stout

Home Stout
Personalized Beer Mug from Glass With A Twist.
  • 1 lb. roasted malt
  • 1 lb. black malt
  • 2 lb. crystal malt
  • 3 lb. demerara sugar
  • 1 lb. black treacle
  • ½ lb. flaked maize (cornflakes)
  • 4 oz. hops small level teaspoonful salt
  • ½ oz. citric acid – yeast – nutrient

Bring seven quarts water to 150°F. Pour into polythene pail and add the malts and flaked maize at once. Put in the immersion heater, cover with sheet polythene and wrap vessel in blanket to conserve warmth. Switch on heater and keep mash at 145°-150°F for seven-eight hours. If you want to try the starch test, now is the time to do it.

Strain mash into boiler, add two ounces of hops and the salt. Boil rapidly for one minute and then simmer gently for forty minutes. Add remaining hops and simmer for a further ten minutes. Put sugar, acid and treacle into fermenting vessel and strain the mash on to it, stirring until all sugar is dissolved. Then make up to four gallons with boiling water.

Cover with sheet polythene as directed and leave to cool to 65°-70°F. Then add yeast and nutrient. Cover again as directed and leave in a warm place for six days.

If using hydrometer take reading after six days until 1.005 is recorded and then bottle. If not using hydrometer, allow stout to ferment on until it goes ‘flat’. Then prime – add sugar to restart fermentation as already directed – and then bottle.

If a draught stout of this sort is wanted then merely allow fermentation to go on until the stout has gone ‘flat’ and then bottle.

Keep for two to four weeks before drinking. If you must sweeten use lactose to taste as already directed, but I think you will prefer this without it being sweetened.

Oatmeal Stout

  • Oatmeal Stout2 lb. black malt
  • 1 lb. pale malt
  • 6 oz. oatmeal
  • 3 oz. hops
  • 4 lb. demerara sugar
  • small level teaspoonful salt
  • ½ oz. citric acid – yeast – nutrient

Bring seven quarts water to 150°F and pour into polythene pail and add malts and oatmeal at once. Put in immersion heater, cover as directed with sheet polythene, and wrap vessel with blanket to conserve warmth. Switch on heater and maintain mash at 145°-150°F. for seven-eight hours. At this stage the starch test may be carried out if you want to.

Strain the mash into boiler and add salt and two ounces hops. Boil rapidly for one minute and then simmer gently for forty minutes. Add remaining hops and simmer for a further ten minutes. Put sugar and citric acid in the fermenting vessel and strain the mash on to this, stirring to make sure all sugar is dissolved. Then make up to four gallons with boiling water. Allow to cool to 65°-70°F and then add yeast and nutrient. Cover as directed and leave in a warm place for six-eight days.

If using hydrometer, take readings at six days until 1.005 is recorded and then bottle as directed. If hydrometer is not being used, allow stout to ferment on until it goes ‘flat’ and then prime – add sugar to restart fermentation – and then bottle.

If a draught beer of this sort is required, merely allow fermentation to go on until beer goes ‘flat’ and then bottle.

Sweeten as required with lactose. Keep for at least two weeks in bottles before drinking.

Milk Stout

  • Milk Stout2 lb. patent black malt
  • 1 lb. pale malt
  • 6 oz. flaked maize (cornflakes)
  • 3 oz. hops
  • 2 lb. white sugar
  • 2 lb. powdered glucose
  • teaspoonful salt
  • ¼ oz. citric acid yeast – nutrient

Bring seven quarts of water to 150°F. Pour into polythene pail and add the malts and flaked maize at once. Put in immersion heater, cover as directed with sheet polythene and wrap vessel with a blanket to conserve warmth. Switch on heater and keep the mash at 145°-150°F for seven-eight hours. At this stage the starch test may be carried out if you wish.

Strain the mash into the boiler and add salt and two ounces of hops. Boil rapidly for one minute and then simmer for forty minutes. Add remaining hops and simmer for a further ten minutes.

Put the sugar, glucose and citric acid in the fermenting vessel and strain the mash on to it through fine muslin. Stir well, making sure all sugar is dissolved and make up to four gallons with boiling water.

Cover as directed and leave to cool to 65°-70°F.

Then add yeast and nutrient and leave in a warm place for seven-eight days.

If using hydrometer take readings at five-six days until 1.005 is recorded and then bottle as directed. If hydrometer is not being used, allow stout to ferment out until it goes ‘flat’ and then prime – add sugar as directed to restart fermentation – and then bottle.

If a draught stout of this sort is required, merely let the stout ferment out until it goes ‘flat’ and then bottle.

Sweeten with lactose as required and keep m bottles for a few weeks or use as soon as required.

Stout

  • Stout2 lb. patent black malt
  • 2 lb. crystal malt
  • 1 lb. black treacle
  • 3 lb. white sugar
  • 4 oz. hops
  • teaspoonful salt
  • 1 oz. citric acid – yeast – nutrient

Bring seven quarts water to 150°F. Pour this into the polythene pail and add the malts at once. Put in the immersion heater, cover the vessel with polythene as directed and wrap in a blanket to conserve warmth. Switch on the heater and keep the mash at 145°-150°F for eight hours. You may carry out the starch test at this stage if you want to.

Strain the mash into the boiler and add two ounces of hops and the salt. Boil rapidly for one minute and then simmer for forty minutes. Then add remaining hops and simmer for a further ten minutes.

Put the sugar, treacle and citric acid in the fermenting vessel and strain the mash on to it. Make up to four gallons with boiling water. Allow to cool to 65°-70°F and then add yeast and nutrient. Cover as already directed and leave in a warm place for six-seven days.

If using hydrometer, take readings after five days until reading has dropped to 1.005 and then bottle as already advised. If hydrometer is not in use, allow fermentation to go on until stout goes ‘flat’, and then prime – add sugar to restart fermentation – and bottle. Some people like this as a draught stout; if you think you would like it, there will be no need to use the hydrometer or to prime the stout. Merely let it ferment right out and then bottle.

Note. Stouts are usually sweeter than ordinary ales and beers. If sweetening is needed, add a little lactose as already suggested. This will improve after a few weeks in bottle, but may be used after two weeks.

Strong Stout

Strong Stout

  • 1½ lb. dried light malt extract
  • 2 lb. caramelized dried malt extract
  • 2 lb. demerara or other dark sugar
  • 4 tablespoonfuls black treacle
  • level teaspoonful salt
  • level teaspoonful citric acid
  • 3 oz. hops – yeast – nutrient

Boil hops and salt for about fifteen minutes in a quart of water. Take out bag and squeeze when cool enough. Pour hop-water into fermentation vessel and add malts, sugar, treacle and citric acid. Make up to two gallons with boiling water.

Stir well to ensure malts, sugar and treacle are dissolved and then allow to cool to 65°F -70°F. Then add yeast and nutrient and leave to ferment in a warm place for seven-eight days.

If using hydrometer, take readings after six days until 1.005 is recorded and then bottle to produce sparkling beer. If hydrometer is not in use, allow fermentation to go on until beer becomes ‘flat’ and then prime – add sugar to recommence fermentation as already directed (p. 58) – and then bottle. If draught beer of this sort is wanted, merely allow fermentation to go on until beer becomes ‘flat’ and then bottle.

Mild Stout

Mild Stout

  • 1 lb. dried light malt extract
  • 2½ lb. caramelized dried malt extract
  • 2 lb. dark brown sugar
  • 2 tablespoonfuls black treacle
  • level teaspoonful salt
  • level teaspoonful citric acid
  • 2 oz. hops – yeast – nutrient

Boil hops and salt in about a quart of water for fifteen minutes. Take out bag, squeeze when cool enough and pour hop-water into fermenting vessel.

Add malts, citric acid, sugar and treacle and make up to two gallons with boiling water. Stir well to ensure sugar and malts are dissolved and allow to cool to 65°F -70°F. Add yeast, nutrient and cover as directed and leave to ferment in a warm place for six-eight days.

If using hydrometer, take readings after five days until 1.005 is recorded and then bottle. If hydrometer is not being used, allow fermentation to go on until beer goes ‘flat’ and then prime – add sugar to recommence fermentation as directed and then bottle. If draught beer of this sort is needed, merely allow fermentation to go on until beer goes ‘flat’ and then bottle.

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