- 4 lb. roasted malt
- 1 lb. patent black malt
- 4 lb. demerara sugar
- 4 oz. hops
- 1 level teaspoonful salt
- ½ oz. citric acid
- yeast – nutrient
Bring seven quarts water to 150°F. Pour this into the polythene pail and add the malts at once. Put in the immersion heater, cover with polythene as already directed and wrap the vessel in a blanket to conserve warmth. Switch on the heater and keep the mash at 145°-150°F for seven-eight hours. At this stage you may carry out the starch test if you want to.
Strain the mash into the boiler and add .2 oz. hops, the salt (and a little coloring matter if you want to). Boil for one minute and then simmer for forty minutes. Then add remaining hops’ and simmer for a further ten minutes.
Put the sugar and acid in the fermenting vessel and strain the mash on to it through fine muslin. Stir well, making sure sugar is dissolved and then make up to four gallons with boiling water. Cover as directed and leave to cool to 65°-70°F. Then add yeast and nutrient. Cover again and leave in a warm place for six-eight days.
If using hydrometer, take readings from five days or until 1.005 is recorded and bottle as directed. If hydrometer is not in use, allow fermentation to go on for a day or two longer until beer goes ‘flat’ and then prime – add sugar to restart fermentation as already explained.
If draught beer of this sort is required, then when the beer has gone ‘fiat’, it is merely bottled as directed ‘without priming.
Drink after a week or two.
- 3 lb. pale malt
- 1 lb. crystal malt
- 4 lb. demerara sugar
- 1 lb. golden syrup
- 6 oz. hops
- small level teaspoonful salt
- ½ oz. citric acid
- yeast – nutrient
Bring seven quarts water to 150°F. Pour into polythene pail and add both malts at once. Put in immersion heater, cover with sheet polythene as directed and wrap the vessel in a blanket to conserve warmth. Switch on heater and maintain mash at 145°-150°F for seven-eight hours. At this stage the starch test may be carried out if you want to try this.
Strain mash into boiler and add three ounces of hops and the salt. Boil rapidly for one minute and then simmer gently for forty minutes. Add remaining hops and simmer for a further ten minutes.
Put sugar, acid and golden syrup into fermenting vessel and strain the mash on to it through fine muslin. Stir well making sure all sugar is dissolved and then make up to four gallons with boiling water. Allow to cool to 65°-70°F, and then add yeast and nutrient.
Cover as directed and leave in a warm place for six-eight days.
If using hydrometer, take reading after six days until 1.005 is recorded and bottle as already directed. If hydrometer is not in use, allow fermentation to go on until beer goes ‘flat’ and then prime add sugar to restart fermentation as already directed and then bottle. If draught beer of this sort is wanted then merely let the beer ferment on until it goes ‘flat’ and then bottle.
Keep in bottle at least one month before drinking – though it may be used sooner if required.
- 2 lb. crystal malt
- 2 lb. pale malt
- 5 lb sugar
- 6 oz. hops
- level teaspoonful salt
- ½ oz. citric acid
- yeast – nutrient
Bring seven quarts water to 150°F. Pour this into polythene pail and add the malt at once. Cover the vessel with polythene as directed after inserting the immersion heater, and then wrap the vessel in a blanket to conserve warmth. Switch on the heater and leave for seven-eight hours. At this stage you may try the starch test if you want to.
Strain the mash into the boiler and add four ounces of hops. Boil for one minute and then simmer for forty minutes. Add the remaining hops and boil for a further ten minutes.
Put the sugar and acid in the fermenting vessel and strain the boiling mash on to it through fine muslin.
Stir well, making sure all sugar is dissolved and then make up to four gallons with boiling water.
Cover with sheet polythene as already directed and leave to cool to 65°-70°F. Then add the yeast. Cover again and leave in a warm place for seven or eight days.
If using the hydrometer, take readings after five days until 1.005 is recorded and bottle as already directed.
If not using hydrometer, allow fermentation to go on until beer goes ‘fiat’, and then prime – add sugar to restart fermentation.
If draught beer of this sort is required, then no sugar is added. The beer when ‘fiat’ is either bottled or put into tap-hole jars. But bear in mind what I have already written about the use of tap-hole jars.
- 4 lb. crystal malt
- 3 lb. demerara sugar
- 1 lb. flaked maize
- 5 oz. hops
- small level teaspoonful salt
- ¼ oz. citric acid dessert spoonful caramel
Bring seven quarts of water to 150°F, pour this into the polythene pail and add the malt and flaked maize at once. Put in the immersion heater, cover the vessel with polythene as directed and wrap the vessel in a blanket to conserve warmth. Switch on the heater and keep the mash at 145°-150°F for seven to eight hours. At this stage you may try to starch test if you want to.
Strain the mash into the boiler and add two ounces of hops, the salt and caramel (gravy browning), and boil rapidly for one minute. Then simmer gently for forty minutes. Then add remaining hops and simmer for a further ten minutes.
Put the sugar and acid in the fermenting vessel and strain the mash on to it either through fine muslin or a nylon sieve. Stir well, making sure all sugar is dissolved, and then make up to four gallons with boiling water. Cover with sheet polythene and leave until cooled to 65°-70°F. Then add your yeast in whichever form you have it ready. Cover as already directed and leave in a warm place for seven-eight days. If top ferment yeast is used some skimming will be necessary. Cover again after skimming.
If using hydrometer, take readings until 1.005 is recorded and bottle as already directed. If draught beer is being made allow fermentation to finish and beer to go ‘fiat’, and then bottle. If priming is being carried out (adding sugar to re-start fermentation), now is the time to do it.
Keep for three weeks in bottles.
Best made as draught beer and drunk by the half pint. Best kept for grumpy relatives to induce them to sleep soundly while the rest of the household enjoys itself.
- 3 lb. dark malt extract
- 2½ lb. demerara sugar
- 3 oz. hops
- small level teaspoonful salt
- ¼ oz. citric acid – yeast – nutrient
Boil hops and salt in a quart of water for fifteen minutes. Take out bag and squeeze when cool enough. Pour strained hop-water into fermentation vessel and add sugar, malt and citric acid. Then make up to two gallons with boiling water. Allow to cool to 65°-70°F. And add yeast and nutrient.
Cover as directed and leave to ferment in warm place until beer goes ‘flat’ and then bottle.
- 1½ lb. dark malt extract
- 2 lb. brown sugar
- 1½ oz. hops
- ¼ oz. citric acid
- small level teaspoonful salt
- tablespoonful black treacle
- 2 liquorice sticks – yeast – nutrient
Note. Liquorice sticks add colour and desirable flavour and are available from most chemists at about 2d. each, otherwise obtain them from home brew supply firms.
Boil hops and salt in a quart of water for fifteen minutes, take out bag, squeeze when cool enough and pour hop water into fermenting vessel. Add malt, sugar, citric acid and black treacle and make up to two gallons all but a quart. While sugar and malt are dissolving, boil the liquorice sticks in the remaining quart of water and when dissolved add to the rest. Stir well to ensure malt and sugar are dissolved and allow wort to cool to 6So-7oof. Add yeast and nutrient. Cover as directed and leave to ferment in warm place for seven-eight days.
If using hydrometer, take readings after five days until 1.00S is recorded and then bottle. If hydrometer is not in use, allow beer to ferment on until it goes ‘flat’ and then prime – add sugar to restart fermentation, as already directed, and then bottle. This recipe ought to be made as a frothing beer, but if draught beer of this sort is required, merely allow fermentation to go on until beer goes ‘flat’ and then bottle.
