Utensils and Apparatus
If reading the outline on commercial brewing it will be seen that we need a mash tun for conversion and extraction of the mash-malt and brewery liquor. For this we may use a two-gallon polythene pail. This is quite suitable for a four-gallon lot, as we can make the amount up to four gallons at a later stage, thus avoiding the use of a larger vessel. We shall also need a copper for boiling the wort _ the strained mixture from the mash tun plus hops and any other additions. The copper may be an ordinary domestic boiler provided it holds two or three gallons comfortably. A galvanized copper (boiler) may be used provided no acid is added until the wort is poured into the fermentation vessel. Acid added earlier than this would react on the metal to produce unpleasant tastes and effects and even poisoning. A very large iron saucepan with a mottled blue lining or similar wash boiler would also be suitable. Even so, it would still be wise never to add acid until advised in the recipes. In this way risk of metal contamination is avoided. Lined vessels must not be chipped. Do not use enamel pails for boiling the wort as these often contain lead in the glaze; this can cause lead poisoning. For fermentation purposes a polythene dustbin bought especially for the purpose is ideal. Before using it stand it on a level surface and put in one gallon of water. Mark on the outside with suitable paint a line where this reaches. Then add another gallon and make another mark. Do this with a third, fourth and fifth gallon until you have a bin marked from bottom to top at gallon levels. This will avoid a lot of messing about later on when a recipe calls for making up to a certain level with water.
In addition to the three essential items mentioned you will need a 50-watt immersion heater costing about 7s. 6d. These are designed for tropical fish tanks and are used by home brewers to keep the mash in the mash tun at a suitable temperature. This saves the bother of trying to keep the mash at a given temperature over gas or other heat for hours on end. Power consumption by the immersion heater is negligible. Bear in mind that constant and correct temperature of the mash is of the utmost importance, as it is during this stage that enzyme action brings about the important changes already discussed. The heater already mentioned does this admirably when used with a two-gallon polythene pail. The above are essentials. A specific gravity hydrometer is not essential, but you will make your brewing much more interesting and results more certain if you use one. When to use is included in the recipes.
Barrels or storage jars are not needed. Far better to take the beer from the fermenting vessel directly into bottles. Quart bottles are best and these should be used when directed in the recipes.
Alternative fermentation vessel. Many operators making large quantities of wine use a thick polythene bag as a fermentation vessel. This may be used quite well for fermenting beers provided it has suitable support; an old barrel past its usefulness is ideal. Merely put the bag in this and fill with wort. Deep crocks or bread bins, or even round plywood flour bins, may be used. As the polythene acts as a lining, almost any vessel normally unsuitable for fermentation purposes may be used. Make certain that any container of this sort has no sharp edges, protruding nails or metal parts that might puncture the polythene bag; remember that when full of wort the pressure on such objects is considerable.
If a bag is used, the top may be gathered together and held in place by an elastic band. The gas formed will find an outlet for itself where the top is puckered.
When bottling time comes, the top may be undone, folded back over the rim of the container and the siphoning tube inserted. One drawback with this type of container is that top-fermenting yeast sticks to it, but this is easily cleaned off. Whereas bottom fermenting yeast settles and works from the bottom, top-fermenting kinds rise to form a nobbly pancake on the surface. This should be scooped off daily if large amounts of yeast are made in a short time. Sometimes, if this ‘cake’ is left on the surface, it turns an unpleasant brown color. This is quite natural and even if left undisturbed until all fermentation has ceased and then scooped off it will do no harm to the beer.
Here it is important to mention that fermentation vessels must be large enough to hold all the wort and to leave space for a good yeast head to form. If it is not big enough, the yeast will overflow, making a terrible mess.
Suitable polythene bags are best obtained from home brew supply firms, as these can be relied upon to be of true polythene and to be sound in seams and texture and of suitable gauge-thickness.